Portland Culinary Alliance

Click here for text and illustrations from the presentation, “What’s For Lunch?”

This past Sunday, PCA members, Ecotrust staff, and members of the Portland community gathered at the Billy Frank Conference Center for an educational conference on school lunch.

Ecotrust’s Deborah Kane opened with a presentation of school lunches from past to present. We learned about the National School Lunch Act, and health initiatives for school lunches, and discussed the possible correlation of childhood obesity to the nutritional quality of present day school lunches.

Kristy Obbink, the Nutrition Services Director for Portland Public Schools, then took the mike and gave us a behind the scenes look at school lunch service. Following her comments, Representative Brian Clem shared with us his work to improve the state of school lunch in Oregon and his unique position as a state representative who also works as a farmer.

Clem went on to moderate a panel of movers and shakers on the school lunch scene, made up of the state’s first Farm to School Coordinator, Cory Schreiber; Ecotrust’s Farm-to-School Manager, Michelle Ratcliff; and Joyce Dougherty, the Director of Child Nutrition Programs for the Oregon Department of Education. Once Clem opened it up for questions from the audience, it become clear just how motivated and interested our community is in improving school lunches, and just how primed our panel members are to make it happen.

What also become obvious, and was stated by one woman who was visiting from Iowa, was that people from surrounding states look to Oregon as a leader on this issue. We are the first state in the nation with a full-time farm to school coordinator in both the Department of Agriculture and the Department of Education, and can become a national model for crafting solutions that result in healthier children and at the same time support our state’s agricultural economy.

The event ended with a discussion on the hopes audience members have for school lunch in the future. Some called out “a garden in every school,” others championed organic offerings and all made it clear that there is more work to be done and that motivated individuals will make these milestones happen.

For information and notes on the meeting, and to learn more ways to get involved with this issue, visit www.ecotrust.org.

Our first PCA Dine Around was a great success. Held on April Fools Day, the excellence of the dinner at the James John Cafe was no joke.

Dine Around is a new program to give members a heads up on hot new chefs and restaurants in the Portland area. Chef and cooking school owner Robert Reynolds, the chef liaison on the PCA Board of Directors, chose his former student, Suzanne Bozarth, as the first Dine Around focus. Suzanne and her partner, Ken Yates, own and operate the James John Cafe in the St. Johns neighborhood. Our April Fools program marked the launch of their new dinner service. Suzanne and Ken have been serving breakfast and lunch only for more than a year while becoming a favorite spot for neighborhood residents.

With the help of Benny Bettinger, former chef at Paley’s Place, Suzanne served a tasty main course of braised lamb shoulder and white beans and arugula and orange salad, followed by ice cream and cookies.

PCA members and neighborhood guests were served wine as they arrived. Appetizers of smoked trout on crackers were passed among the crowd. Once we were seated we had a delicious sampling of thinly sliced charcuterie. Good conversation flowed at the three long tables for a memorable and enjoyable evening.

BridgePort Assistant Brewmaster Jeff Edgerton and Chef Jack Henniger outdid themselves for the March 18 program featuring food and beer pairing at bridgeport brewpub + bakery. All but the berries, in a dessert from Janie Hibler’s “The Berry Bible” cookbook, had beer in the recipe. The berries, served warm in a port sauce over shortbread, were paired with Black Strap Stout in such an agreeable marriage of flavors that even Janie was happily surprised by its perfection.

First course was beer bread, made with the spent grain from the brewing process, and a delicious cheddar spread made with Black Strap Stout. Those who couldn’t stop nibbling the bread were delighted with BridgePort’s gift to all attendees: a loaf of beer bread. The “Keep Portland Beered” bumper sticker was much appreciated, too, and will probably show up on some members’ bumpers.

Beets were poached in Ebenezer Ale for the salad, a mix of greens, apples, goat cheese and hazelnuts, which was paired with Ropewalk Amber Ale. Chef Henniger decided to pair the fish course, cod and crispy polenta, with IPA because he thought that BridgePort’s flagship ale, accounting for 85% of its production, complimented the cod’s lemony butter sauce.

The chef said that he rarely actually cooks with beer because too much cooking can turn the taste of beer bitter. His preference is to add beer toward the end of cooking, so it lends its flavors to the food. On the other hand, he likes to bake with beer. He recommended adding porter to brownies or chocolate cake.

Janie Hibler told us about her recipe for the shortbread with warm Oregon marionberry-port sauce, noting that it’s one of her favorites from her cookbook, “The Berry Bible,” partly because it’s so easy and quick. It takes no more than 20 minutes from start to finish. She gave us an interesting overview of cookbook writing and the long, arduous process of bringing her research, recipe testing and writing to published form. And she encouraged everyone to get out and pick some Oregon berries this summer. But watch the calendar. If you’ve waited until after about July 12, you may have missed the peak of Oregon’s berry season. And by the way, July is Oregon Craft Beer Month. Freeze some berries, Janie advises, so you can enjoy them year round — with beer, perhaps?

PCA members came from as far as Hoquiam and Olympia, Washington and Newport, Oregon to see baker and cookbook author Greg Patent at Bob’s Red Mill on February 12.

Patent, who lives in Missoula, Montana, was inspired by his international heritage and background to write “A Baker’s Odyssey: Celebrating Time-Honored Recipes from America’s Rich Immigrant Heritage.” He was born in Hong Kong and raised in Shanghai. As a boy he helped his Iraqi grandmother cook and also found inspiration from TV cooks, including Julia Child.

During his demonstration of baked goods that originated in Wales, Ireland, Thailand and Australia, Patent was being filmed by a Swedish film crew from Shanghai. They were making a documentary about people who had lived in a certain apartment house in Shanghai and they tracked Patent down to his PCA event at Bob’s Red Mill. It was an international night, indeed!

For his cookbook, Patent found 130 recipes from 32 countries or ethnic groups, but the sources for his recipes were all immigrants living in America. In Missoula alone, he found 18 people who contributed recipes from their own heritage. All the contributors invited Patent into their homes so he could observe their traditional methods for producing their pastries, savory bites and breads.

Patent demonstrated and shared samples of Irish soda bread, Welsh griddle cakes, Thai fritters and Anzac cookies from Australia that commemorate the World War I Battle of Gallipoli.

Members and other guests purchased “A Baker’s Odyssey” and had Patent autograph their books. Six lucky members of the audience found “Winner” stickers on the bottom of their plates and received free books, which Patent was glad to sign with the words, “Happy Baking!”

This week the great folks at Culinate joined the PCA. We’d like to welcome Kim Carlson, Mark Douglas, and Carrie Floyd on board. All are part of the staff at Culinate.com, a website that is really more of an ongoing conversation about learning to eat well. Visit the site to check out their great content ranging from articles to cooking tips to fabulous interviews. We particularly love the podcasts, recipes and updates on food news, all designed to remind us that food is fundamental.

From time to time, these new members will also be helping us out with an event. For our upcoming event at Bob’s Red Mill, they’ll be giving a seat at our event to two lucky winners from their site. We’d like to extend our thanks - and a warm welcome!

Have you had your five servings of veggies today? Perhaps you should have a cocktail.

PCA members and guests who attended Saturday’s program at The Gilt Club could have had a V-8 but instead opted to get their cucumbers, tomatoes and red peppers in vodka, shaken with ice and other tasty ingredients and sipped from a martini glass. As we arrived we were served a refreshing cocktail made with cucumber-infused vodka, basil and lime. Called Tracy’s First Love, it’s Gilt’s most popular cocktail.

Owner Jamie Dunn and bartender Jess Koenig put us to work making our own bacon salt. We mashed crisp (deep-fried, in fact) bacon with a muddling stick at the bottom of a glass. We added Morton coarse Kosher salt and mashed it some more. The rims of our martini glasses were dipped in bacon salt after being rubbed with a wedge of lemon.

It was for a cocktail called the BLT and we observed the process from beginning to (slurp!) end. The specialty BLT infused vodka was already prepared, so we didn’t have to wait the days or weeks for a vodka infusion to be just right. But we got to see how it’s done. Tomatoes were grilled and sliced and red peppers were roasted, peeled and sliced. Into a vat of vodka they went, along with torn fresh basil leaves. Once the red vodka’s ready to go on display in the bar, it goes in a bottle or an attractive glass jar purchased from infusionjars.com

We also learned about infusions using tequila, brandy, gin and amaretto, with a vast number of fruits and vegetables. At Gilt Club they even make a mole infusion, with cocoa nibs in vodka. You can see their entire cocktail menu at giltclub.com.

The brutal winter storms that hit the Northwest last month dealt a heavy blow to Black Sheep Creamery in Adna, WA (near Chehalis). Owners Brad and Meg Gregory lost most of their flock of 80 sheep.

Cheese lovers in the Portland area are offering the Gregorys a hand with the Cheese for a Good Cause fundraiser to be held Friday, February 1, 6-9 p.m. at the Ecotrust Building, 721 NW 9th Ave., 2nd floor. For a suggested donation of $25-50 attendees will enjoy local beer and wine and Northwest and international cheeses. Purchase tickets by clicking here.

Black Sheep Creamery’s artisan cheeses are available in Portland at Steve’s Cheese, Foster & Dobbs, Curds & Whey and Market of Choice.

What’s the latest in cookware and kitchen implements? Those who attended December’s program at In Good Taste were brought up to date by Barbara Dawson and her capable staff: Pam Henderson, Cheryl Russell and James O’Keefe.

Greeting members as they came in out of the cold were a spread of tasty delights. Glasses of champagne or wine, a variety of cheeses, crackers with salmon mousse and caviar, Neopolitan cookies and chocolate cake were arrayed along the counter. After browsing among all the gourmet salts, new cookbooks and gleaming merchandise, members sat down to nibble on the treats and watch Cheryl Russell demonstrate some of her favorite things: ceramic knives, peelers and graters.

Cheryl said she likes ceramic knives because they’re lightweight and oh so sharp. She effortlessly cut almost transparent slices of lemons and limes. She said they cut “like butter.” Ceramic knives have improved in quality since they were first introduced more than 20 years ago. The only drawback is they’re not flexible so they’re not the best choice for boning. Cheryl said the guest chefs at In Good Taste’s cooking school often set their own knives aside for the opportunity of using Cheryl’s collection of ceramic knives.

Barbara showed us one of her favorite new things: Riedel’s glasses that are made expressly for Oregon Pinot Noir. The lip of the large-bowled, tulip-shaped glasses flairs out slightly, a feature that’s meant to enhance the mouth feel of the wine.

Barbara and Cheryl also recommended adding a serrated peeler to anyone’s gadget collection. Made by both Oxo and Messermeister, these peelers delicately remove the peel from tomatoes and peaches, as well as other fruits and vegetables.

Barbara generously gave each of us a goodie bag full of fun gadgets as we said our goodbyes and went back out into the chilly night.

LAD Communications recently sent the following news release to their media contacts across the country:

New Cast of Portland Foodies Head Up Alliance
Professional Culinary Alliance Gets Fresh Perspective

November 14, 2007 (Portland, OR) – Micro-breweries, independent wineries, local cheeses, house cured meats – these are the ingredients that have blended to create Oregon’s robust culinary scene, and the Portland Culinary Alliance makes it their mission to keep their finger on the pulse. And now, Oregon’s only professional culinary alliance has passed along the spatula to newly elected top officers for 2008-2009. Susan G. Hauser, a freelance writer, will take over as the next president; and Lota LaMontagne, a public relations specialist, moves up as the new vice president.

Portland Culinary Alliance, founded in 1987, has some 100 members in Oregon and Washington in food-related professions, ranging from restaurant chefs to cookbook authors. The organization’s mission is to inform members of food trends, products and businesses through monthly programs, while providing opportunities to network with other food professionals.

The alliance and its top officers serve as a resource to community organizations and media seeking to learn more about the region’s burgeoning culinary scene.

Hauser writes for a number of national and regional publications, particularly on the subjects of food, travel and business. LaMontagne is with LAD communications, a public relations firm with offices in Portland, New York City and New Zealand that represents numerous clients in the food, beverage and hospitality industries. LAD also produces the annual Portland Indie Wine Festival.

The afternoon sun filled The Country Cat Dinnerhouse & Bar with light while PCA members filled the restaurant with good cheer at the annual dinner on Sunday, November 4. In addition to enjoying fabulous food and wine, members elected a new president and vice president and shared holiday gifts in the always delightful culinary gift exchange.

For many the occasion was a first chance to sample the regional American cuisine offered on the menu of Chef Adam Sappington. Formerly a chef at Wildwood, Adam opened his new restaurant just six months ago in the heart of Montavilla in Southeast Portland. From the tasty hors d’oeuvres to the delectable dessert, the five-course dinner, complete with vegetable, seafood and meat courses, got rave revues. At the end of the meal the chef was enthusiastically applauded and many members promised that they would soon be returning to the Country Cat.

In the business segment of the annual gathering, Susan Hauser was elected president for 2008-2009 and Lota LaMontagne was elected vice president.